MILAN — A change of scenery marks a change in perspective. Behind Missoni’s decision to decamp from Milan Fashion Week in favor of a presentation at Pitti Uomo there’s a strategic move that telegraphs a new chapter for the brand’s menswear offering.
As chief executive officer Livio Proli said in an exclusive interview with WWD, the label is now fully committed to turning its attention to men’s, a category that “had not been a priority of late, because we needed to focus and develop our womenswear and our lifestyle concept.”
Starting with the spring 2025 collection that will bow at the Fortezza da Basso, menswear will be designed by an in-house team, while Filippo Grazioli will continue to helm the creative direction of Missoni’s womenswear.
Dedicating a separate division exclusively to menswear is in sync with the company’s mission to imprint an independent, strong identity to this proposition. In doing so, the design team’s starting point was the late cofounder Ottavio Missoni, who died in 2013 at age 92.
Known as Tai, the charismatic personality with a nonchalant attitude and dedication to art and craft, inspired the collection, which merges heritage codes with new textile experimentations.
In a preview, a spokesperson from the design team underscored that even before coming up with the silhouettes, extensive research is done on threads, textures and treatments to ensure the true essence of a Missoni collection is created.
This was evident for spring 2025, as the concise and appealing lineup injected a modern feel to Missoni’s signature geometries and shed a new light on its color tradition.
Cobalt crystal coatings and reflective yarns borrowed from the automotive industry were introduced to add unexpected finishes and luminous tweaks to knit pants and tonal suits in chevron patterns. A rubbery film partly covered a shirt to create a degrade effect or layered entirely on outerwear pieces to enhance their performance.
Elsewhere, blown threads, cotton and hemp yarns and mohair-like options donned structured yet soft, airy hand cardigans and sweaters.
Another highlight was the sun-soaked, lived-in vibe imparted via a weaving technique to the ever-present cardigans and knit jackets, which resulted in a more subdued approach to color. Cue a zippered jacket — whose simple shape traced back to a Missoni style of the ‘80s — marked by a mismatched patchwork of cream chevron patterns and colored ones, the latter layered with buttery-hued threads to soften their shades. Coming with a matching vest underneath, the item was further enriched by nabuk details that elevated its versatile design.
The new attitude in the color palette, which was rich in neutral and warm tones as well as shades evoking sea waves and summer sunsets, was intended to help men combine and integrate Missoni pieces into their everyday wardrobe. Workwear-inspired separates such as chino pants as well as cashmere knitted options cut in a sweatpant shape reinforced the daywear focus.
Fits were intended to amplify the sense of ease and spontaneous approach to dressing, as well as appeal to a larger demographic. Oversize styles targeting younger consumers were flanked by regular lines and volumes winking to a more mature audience, sending out the message that the brand’s new direction doesn’t want to leave its core, traditional cluster of clients behind.
SOURCE: Women’s Wear Daily
